The machines that Coty secured produced a better face powder because it produced smaller powder particles that were more evenly sized and better mixed. (“Air Spun” face powder by Coty, 1935) Air-powered micronisers From now on their powders would be marketed as “Air Spun”.Ĭonvinced that conventional ‘mechanical’ methods of face powder manufacture have reached the limit of their possibilities, Coty has uncompromisingly discarded them in favor of a revolutionary improvement-the “Air Spun” principle-which Coty found, tested, and developed. This process improved Coty’s face powders and, just as importantly, gave them a new marketing angle. In 1934, Coty secured the exclusive rights to a new manufacturing process using air-powered micronisers. The success of the bite test campaign sent many cosmetic companies looking for a manufacturing process that would enable them to improve their face powders so that they would pass the bite test and give them a fresh marketing hook that was at least as powerful as the one used by Lady Esther. As most other powders then on the market failed the bite test the campaign was very effective and Lady Esther became the most popular face powder sold in the United States. In the 1930s, competition between American cosmetic companies heated up when Lady Esther began an advertising campaign that urged women to use the ‘bite test’ to see if their powder contained ‘grit’. They were generally sold in boxes made from cardboard, metal or plastic and held an important place in the product line of most cosmetic companies up until the Second World War.Ĭommercial rivalry between cosmetic companies was fierce and a number of factors could affect the popularity of a particular brand of powder including: covering power, colouring, perfume, texture, brand name and packaging. Loose face powders were very popular in the early part of the twentieth century.
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